Category: Training

Apr 21 2010

Managing Unwanted Behavior

Dog chewing on a slipperIf you had a friend who was trying to give up chocolate, would you invite them into your house and then eat their favorite chocolate in front of them? If you had a friend who was in the throes of nicotine withdrawal, would you smoke in front of them? For most of us the answers to these questions would be no. Yet we seem to ignore this courtesy when it comes to our dogs and in the process forget about one of the most useful tools in preventing unwanted behaviors— simple management.

Dogs do what works for them. If chewing helps to relieve boredom, stress, teething pain, or simply the need to chew, they are going to grab whatever is available and palatable to them and chew on it. It makes no difference to them if it’s a $1000 pair of Manolo Blahniks (yes I watched Sex in the City) or a ratty, smelly, hole ridden pair of house slippers that a wife has been trying to get her husband to throw out for years.

Teaching our dogs the rules of acceptable behavior is not something that is accomplished in one or two sessions. It takes good instruction, patience, persistence, repetition, and consistency to help establish new behavior. There is one more thing that needs to be in place throughout the teaching of a new, acceptable behavior— management of opportunities to practice the old unwanted behavior.

For our purposes here, management simply means that the dog is not given any opportunity to practice the old unwanted behavior unless you are specifically ready & able to intervene and re-direct the dog towards the appropriate behavior. To some this may seem overly simplistic but it is not an easy thing to practice sometimes. Kicking off your shoes after a hard day’s work is a physical and mental reward for us and it’s something that’s done without our notice; that is until five minutes later when we’ve come back from changing out of our work clothes to find Fido happily relieving his over excitement from your arrival by going to town on those discarded shoes.

One point I would like to make here is that Fido is not to blame in this example. There is no intent behind his actions other than to got some relief or find an outlet for his energy; he simply hasn’t practiced the new behavior enough for it to replace the older hard wired one. Dogs are not devious; they are not willfully misbehaving or being spiteful regardless of how much their actions remind us of ourselves. 

Remember that when we are trying to change a dog’s default behavior, any chance the dog gets to practice the old hard wired behavior without being redirected to the new acceptable behavior prolongs the time it takes to establish the behavior you want. The best way to set yourself and your dog up for faster success when learning a new behavior is to make sure the dog can’t practice the old behavior unsupervised.

Cheers,

Kevin, Jackie, Gavin, Annie, Tosha, Elbee 

3 comments - Posted by Kevin Myers at 3:38 PM - Categories: Behavior | Bringing a New Dog Home | Training

Apr 8 2010

Getting Into The Training Zone

What is the zone?

To a batter in baseball, sometimes the ball seems as large as a basketball— to a Mason laying stone, every stone he reaches for is the right one— and to a trainer working with an animal, sometimes it feels like you both speak the same language. Although originally a sports term, "being in the zone" is something that I think we have all experienced at one time or another. It is that place where everything seems to come effortlessly; a place where time is slowed, our thinking is crystal, and our actions are second nature.

The psychology of getting into the zone is a multimillion (if not billion) dollar industry and it reaches across all areas of endeavor. Sports psychologists are paid millions of dollars every year to help athletes attain this Zen like state. A quick search of "how do I get into the zone" on Google yields 317,000,000 hits for books, articles, websites, psychologists, videos, and other resources about the subject. I definitely think it is a worthwhile subject of study for us as trainers, and I'd like to share some practical things that we can do as dog trainers to help us attain this state more often.

Have a plan for the unplanned.

The best trainers know that although we often have plan for "formal" training sessions, having a plan for our impromptu sessions is also key. In reality a training "event" can last only a few seconds, knowing exactly what you are going to do when your dog jumps on you, prevents reaction on your part. Instead you will start to notice the subtle cues that precede your dog jumping up and will be able to act as if you knew it was coming (because you did).

Avoid being hyper focused on the dog.

I know this sounds like a contradiction but hear me out. Sometimes we get so locked into the dog, analyzing their body language and actions, that we forget that they are reacting to us. Be aware of your own body language and movement— remember that even the slightest change in our body posture or gestures can be a huge difference to an animal that discerns tiny movements for a living.

Hand in hand with being aware of our body language is being aware of our emotional state. While I don't agree with Cesar Milan that dogs sense energy vibrations; I do believe that they can see tension in our bodies and that they can smell changes in our body odor given off by the chemicals produced by emotions. We all feel tense, angry, and frustrated at times and avoiding training during those times will lead to more times in the zone.

Visualize your weak points as well as your good.

Many people think that visualizing anything negative is counter-productive but I strongly disagree. I have always been a person that is quick to anger. It is something that I work on constantly as I try and develop new habits to replace my old ones, but it is not something I will accomplish overnight. I have found that by visualizing unwanted responses as well as wanted responses, I am better able to deal with them; and by having more positive outcomes with these frustrating situations, both dog and trainer become reinforced and begin to trust in each other as partners.

Above all, realize that the zone is not reached by chance.

Being in the zone is not something that happens by accident, it is the result of being prepared both physically and mentally for the challenges you face when training. Through thoughtful and deliberate preparation on our part, the training zone will be reached more and more often and both we and our dogs will be the better for it.

We would love to hear your stories of training success. Tell us how you prepare to get into the training zone.

Cheers

Kevin, Jackie, Gavin, Annie, Tosha, Elbee 

5 comments - Posted by Kevin Myers at 12:52 PM - Categories: Behavior | Dog Training Tips | Dogs | Training

Apr 4 2010

Training Tips: Why Won't My Dog Come When Called?

This past week I read an excellent article on Karen Pryor's web site, http://www.clickertraining.com. The article was written by Rebecca Lynch and was entitled Poisoned Cues: The Case of the Stubborn Dog. It reminds us to first look at factors other than a dog being stubborn, when a behavior breaks down. With Spring in the air and warmer weather upon us, we will need to use the cue/command perhaps most often poisoned by us as owners— getting our dogs to come when called.

What's in it for me?
Dogs are always looking at things from the perspective of "what's in it for me?", and for many dogs the answer to that question is "nothing good" when it comes to responding to recall. Sure they get called (mostly at the same times everyday) for good things like food, walks, or perhaps a game of ball. But for many dogs, responding to recalls are more likely to make good things end instead of happen. If you were to keep a list of pro's and con's (from your dog's point of view) for responding to "Lassie come", chances are your list would look something like this:

Pros:

  • Got food (but many times this has the additional cues of time and words like dinner or food or eat)
  • Went for a walk (again cues of time and words like walk and presence of leash or walking shoes)
  • Got a treat (again many times your voice has changed in pitch and has become a predictor of a treat coming)

Cons:

  • Got my nails trimmed
  • Got a bath
  • Got patted on the head (yes some dogs put up with this but many do not like it)
  • Got toweled off
  • Went to the vets
  • Had to stop chasing
  • Had to stop smelling
  • Had to stop playing
  • Had to come inside
  • Had to get up from comfortable spot
  • Got scolded
  • Had to stop sniffing other dogs butt
  • Had to stop eating grass

It doesn't take an advanced degree in mathematics to get the point , coming when called has simply come to mean an end to fun and interesting activity— and the dog gets nothing good in return.

What needs to change?
To get our recall back we simply need to change our dogs perception of what is likely to happen when they do respond to recall. By combining treats with real life rewards we can set up a win/win situation for both us and our dogs and strengthen the recall response.

What are some ways I can build a good recall in my dog?
For instance setup a doggie play date with a friend in a controlled area. Let your dog know that you have treats (high value ones to start) and go out for the play date. When your chances for success are high (before your dog becomes too distracted, or after he is no longer so distracted) call you dog to come. If your dog comes treat them with the high value treat and your best good dog voice; and then let the dog go right back to playing (the real life reward). Do this several times over the first session, each time make sure that your dog is not so into his play session that he has no chance of responding when you call. End the session on a cheerful note when the dogs are played out and reward the same for coming to you when you end the session as the first time he responded to your call. In addition any time your dog takes a break in the play session and comes over to check in on their own, a reward is called for. Over time, as the recall becomes stronger, you can fade the food rewards but you want to make sure that you always keep the real life rewards so that the dog feels at least that they have a chance of a good outcome when they come when called.

There are dozens of everyday situations that can be setup to take advantage of training like I just described. By planning training situations like this and stacking the odds in our (and the dog's) favor, we build up the recall with each success. By changing the ratio of good things vs. bad things in favor of the good, your dog will start to become more responsive to recall and thus better your chances of getting a recall when the safety of your dog and others depend on it.

Cheers

Kevin, Jackie, Gavin, Annie, Tosha, Elbee

 

6 comments - Posted by Kevin Myers at 5:57 PM - Categories: Behavior | Dog Safety | Dog Training Tips | Dogs | Play | Training | Treats

Mar 31 2010

Woof Wednesday With Peta Clarke: How to Win Dogs and Influence Eagles

By Peta Clarke

I’ve always been a person who needs time on their own. As an only child, I spent a lot of my formative years in imaginary worlds with imaginary friends pondering the meaning of the universe and setting lofty goals that any eight year old would be proud of. At thirty eight I still need time to myself for pondering life, but also know the importance of spending time with those people I have come to call friends. Not a word that I toss around carelessly, those humans who I have chosen to knight with this label are few and far between and share the honor with several other beings of the feathered and furred variety.

Good relationships are the foundation of a happy life. Those of us who consider our dogs friends and even family know the immense value that comes from just having them around. Coming home to bright eyes and waggling bodies can make even the toughest of days brighter through no other reason than the way they make us feel when in their presence. All those years of domestication give us an animal that has a longer socialization period than it’s forbearers and who will form strong bonds with humans with very little exposure. Dogs basically come programmed to adore us, seeing us as virtual superheroes with very little effort on our part. And is that not what being a friend is about? Making us feel loved and worthy of that love no matter what.

As a trainer of exotic animals, my job is about good relationships. Without a solid base of trust or need the animals I work with would flee from me or attempt to kill me. I don’t have the luxury of domestication with an eagle or a seal. I have to work every day at building and maintaining their desire to have me in their space and interact with me. Zoo trainers often refer to this as ‘rapport building’. Before we do anything in the name of training behaviors, we have to establish a relationship of trust. What zoo folk call ‘rapport building’, scientists call ‘desensitization’ and ‘counter conditioning’. What we call ‘trust’ they call a ‘conditioned emotional response’. But whatever you call it, it is vital that the animal have a positive association to you. How your seal, chicken, wombat, dog or human feels about you is important.

Rapport building is very much a gradual thing, being built up, just like the trust and love you have for a good friend, over time and through experience. They are not things that are given, they are things that are earned. Even when the animal is one that was born in captivity and has been around people all its life, we still go through rapport building with each and every trainer that will work with that particular animal to ensure each relationship is good. While there are a number of ways we will go about getting the animal to accept us, initially food is our number one tool. An important factor at this stage is making the availability of a favorite food dependent on us. There has to be a clear contingency – the presence of the trainer has to come to predict the opportunity for food for the animal to begin feeling different about us being around. This way we can speed up the association because the animal learns that the only time it will have access to good stuff is in the presence of a human. Approximations are also used and are important to remember. Meeting the animal with the level of interaction it feels comfortable with is imperative. The last thing we want to do is reinforce behaviors associated with arousal and anxiety and have these as the predominant emotions that are evoked when working with the animal. We may for instance start by throwing half a mouse under the door to a new eagle and standing back to the side so that the animal can sense that we are there, but can’t see us. Gradually we will work up to being in with the bird and asking the bird to move towards us for the food. Negative reinforcement is often the big player for us at this stage. What does the animal want? Us GONE! No worries, just sit there calmly and we will leave…

Trust occurs not only through associating ourselves with what the animal wants most in the world, but also through us taking care not to place the animal in a situation or context that may make them feel anxious. This is vitally important and a factor that, when missed, becomes very obvious over time. I’ve worked with seals that were so aroused by the prospect of getting a mullet or a herring that they could not stay on their station on stage. A ‘station’ can be anything that the animal can fit it’s whole body onto. A big fake rock for a seal, a matchbox for a budgerigar. In dog speak you can think of your dog’s ‘station’ as his mat or bed. In the case of our seal, because reinforcement for being on the station (the behavior we want) had been delivered when the seal was exhibiting behaviors that were occurring due to his anxiety level (whale eye, quick short, sharp breaths, erratic body movement) these behaviors grow, as we would expect, due to the laws of learning. Obviously these behaviors are counterproductive in the long run to the behavior we are trying to train, which is simply to stay on a station.

But there is a more evil demon lurking in the shadows. Through the process of classical conditioning any strong emotions that regularly occur are associated with all the stimuli that are consistently present in the environment when they occur. The Conditioned Emotional Response is an important aspect of early training to be aware of. You want, no you need your animal to be calm and confident in training sessions. Why? Well how well do you learn when you are stressed or nervous? And when it comes to working in with some animals, well, let’s just realise that the most consistent stimuli in a training session is the trainer. You do not want your 300kg (660 pound) seal feeling anxious every time you are around. It could literally be the death of you. All good trainers, whether they have a seal, dog or child in front of them understand that body language gives us a window into the animals emotional state, which has a big part to play in the resulting behavior that we see. By ensuring that the body language you are seeing is telling you your animal is calm and confident, you set your animal up for success and you set yourself up in some situations, to live another day.

One way to really establish a feeling of confidence in your animal is to give the animal as much power over their environment as is possible. Having the power to choose how you interact with your environment is imperative for any animal’s well being. No one likes to be forced. When you work with wild animals that come into care for various reasons, you more often than not start working with an animal that has had all the control it once had in the wild stripped from it in the name of saving it’s life. A seal, for instance, that has come in due to a shark attack has come from the freedom of the ocean to the confines of a small pool. Every effort it makes to get away from it’s human caregivers is met in defeat. Whether it chooses to flee or aggress, it fails to escape. The effects of Learned Helplessness on animals and humans is well documented in the work of Martin E. P. Seligman and well worth researching.

We can make use of this information in our training. By allowing our animals the chance, when safe, to even slightly increase the distance between it and the thing that makes it nervous, we can use negative reinforcement not only to strengthen the behavior that we want, but also greatly increase their trust in the situation and in you. You gotta love that side effect.

The amount of force that many of us use in our training has reduced a great deal over the past decade or so. And it can sometimes appear in disguise. When you use a well established behavior to prevent another undesired behavior, it could be said we are using constraint. By asking the animal to perform a behavior we know it has a high likelihood of performing, even in uncomfortable circumstances, we in essence force the animal to do what we want. Even though you can’t put a lead around the neck of a seal for instance, if the animal has a strong targeting behavior; where the animal has been trained to glue it’s nose to your fist when presented in a specific way, you can ask for a target to prevent the animal from fleeing. Depending on the strength of the behavior, this can literally force a well trained animal to stay put when every fiber in it’s body is telling it to run. You do this at your peril though, because the next time you ask the animal to trust you, you may just find you are ten steps behind where you once were. While this can be a useful method for helping animals get over a fear of something, never forget that the body language the animal is giving you tells you what it is feeling.

Let the animal run back to the safety of it’s pool or fly back to it’s aviary and you just might find that the animal’s confidence in the situation and their trust in you will grow quickly. “Hmm, don’t really like that thing, but when it’s around I get treats and heck! I can always get away if I need to….”. This really is an interesting point, because in many ways it seems to fly in the face of operant conditioning – aren’t we reinforcing running away by allowing the animal to escape the scary situation? If used poorly, a trainer will definitely see a pattern of escape developing, for sure. One of the most important aspects of using escape as a reinforcer is the trainer having control over the behavior through the establishment of a cue for the ‘escape’. That way we can reinforce staying calmly by giving the animal the cue to escape. This places us and our animals in a win/win situation. The trainer must establish the cue for escape and use it as a conditioned reinforcer when they see confident behavior in thdirection of the goal. I have actively reinforced the escape behavior positively with food, especially in a situation where the animal has had a history of being forced to stay in a context that makes his eyes pop out of his head and been punished for running off. This is quite common with dogs that have been worked through more traditional method, where the thought is sometimes “show him you’re the boss and you aren’t worried about it, so neither should he!” With animals that have a strong station behavior, placing the station at a greater distance away from the scary thing and cuing them to go there as a negative reinforcer for calm behavior will formalize the behavior of escape. Stationing is a great basic behavior for every dog and like all targeting behaviors, hugely useful in a variety of setting.

All too often, both in the dog world and the exotics world, trainers forget that what is the most valuable reinforcer at any moment changes and the animal - through their body language, especially what they are orientated to – will tell you what it is they want. Watch your animals and where possible, give them what they ‘ask’ for when they give you desired behavior. This surely is the Mecca if reinforcement training.

I remember working with a bull elephant once who was being crate trained for an upcoming move. Everything in the name of positive reinforcement had been done, carrots, apples, banana muffins– you name it, but still the elephant was obviously very nervous of the crate. He would walk in only so far, reach that long grey trunk the rest of the distance so most of his huge body could remain close to the door for a speedy back out get away once he had grabbed as much good stuff as possible. Once out he would eat and come back for another go. Hmm.

We were getting nowhere until we decided the thing he wanted most in the world was not carrot or apple, but escape. How to give him that? Wasn’t he getting it already? Sure, but the behavior we saw just prior to him backing out and escaping was full of anxiety - wide eyes, flapping ears, quick, jerky movements. This was the set of behaviors that were being reinforced. He already knew a cue for the behavior of backing up (a handy one to have on elephants) so the next time he came in we cued him to back up when he only had one foot in the crate. His eyes became wide, but this time with not with fear but surprise! In under two weeks, using a combination of negative (escape) and positive reinforcement, we had him calmly waiting in the crate for his next banana muffin. In fact, we had trouble getting him out of the crate for a while! Often you quickly see the animal will begin to not respond to the cue to escape and choose to stay in the situation that had them so scared not that long ago. I reinforce that choice grandly! It is telling me that the animal is becoming more comfortable and understanding that it has a choice in the matter.

An important aspect of giving the animal choice in this way is always being careful to keep the animal below threshold, as with our elephant. This puts them in a place where they can more readily make the choice you want (to stay with you) and prevents any negative emotion and behavior (such as aggression) becoming associated with the situation. Remember, you get what you reinforce. If you are in a situation where you are working with a dog that’s a little nervous of something, say a trash can, you need to watch the body language and cue him to escape when he is still showing signs he is ok. If you wait for him to be whale eyed and lip licking before you cue him to move away, these behaviors (and the emotions that prompted them – think elephant!) will grow through the law of reinforcement. Yikes! Just what we don’t want. Not to mention what it does to your relationship!

None of us should be surprised by the confidence an animal gains from not being forced into a situation that makes them feel threatened. As always, when we think of situations where we have felt nervous, for whatever reason, we know how grateful we were when some kind soul understood and respected our need. Whether that need was ‘silly’ as in getting the heck away from an innocent creepy crawly or more sensible in a serious situation, people who show us empathy and care are always people we feel we can trust. It’s the same it seems, whether you are a man or a mouse.


About Peta:

Peta Clarke is a Nationally Accredited Trainer with almost fifteen years experience working as a professional animal trainer in a variety of areas both in Australia and America.

While Peta’s first love is working with dogs, her experiences in the field of animal training range from elephants to goldfish. As a trainer and presenter of animal shows in zoos on several continents, she has had the opportunity to work with many exotic animals, but centres her work in this area on working with free flighted birds and marine mammals. Whether it is a seal or a seagull, Peta has found that every interaction taught her more about being good dog trainer. She believes it was a real turning point in her understanding of the power of reinforcement training. “I thought I was using positive reinforcement well when I would work with dogs, but after I started training birds - animals that can just fly away if they are not interested in your ‘game’ and later seals - animals that could kill you if you didn’t have their total trust, I realized that if I wanted to truly be the best trainer I could be, it was time to pull my socks up”.

As well as a career as an exotic animal trainer, Peta also works extensively for Animal House Animal Talent Agency based in Sydney, Australia, training and working animals for the International Film Industry. Her credits include “Babe”, “Superman Returns”, “Wolverine” and many other local films and literally hundreds of television commercials. Some of her favorite memories working animals on set have come from working the cottonelle Labrador puppies for ad campaigns from around the world. Hard work, she says, but always amazing how quickly an 8-week-old puppy can learn!

In addition to these two roles, Peta also runs her own animal training and consultancy business, Animal Training Solutions, based out of Australia. Peta spends time consulting on both pet dog and parrot behaviour and training issues, advising wildlife parks and zoos on improved training practices and show development. She also is a sought after speaker in Australia, regularly teaching Certificate level animal training and behaviour courses for aspiring animal trainers and an invited lecturer for many dog obedience clubs and related assoications. She has also served as Vice President for the Association of Pet Dog Trainers Australia for 3 years. She shares her home with Harris and Pearl, her two boxer dogs and Jacob Brown, a Long Billed Corella.

Peta's website is currently undergoing maintenance, but when back online, you can find her at http://www.animaltrainingsolutions.com.au. You can also find Peta on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/peta.clarke

We welcome your comments on this article.

Cheers

5 comments - Posted by Kevin Myers at 12:00 AM - Categories: Dogs | Fearful Dogs | Training | Woof Wednesday

Mar 27 2010

Training Tips: Messy Pockets – Capturing Good Behavior In Dogs

Questions answered in this article:

  • Why are the pockets of some trainers so messy?
  • What are some good habits of effective dog trainers?
  • What does it mean to “capture” a behavior?
  • What are the tools/skills that I need in order to capture a behavior?
  • Why is capturing a behavior so powerful?
  • What are some behaviors that can be captured?
  • Is capturing the same as bribing?
  • Where can I learn more about dog training?


Messy Pockets = Tidy Behaviors
If you were to go through the various pant, jacket, shirt, and other assorted pockets of the average positive reinforcement trainer, chances are you would come away with a very messy hand. It’s all there; from kibble to carrots, cheese cubes to carob chips, liver snaps to hot dog slivers. So what’s with the untidy mess? Are trainers just a bunch of slobs or is there a method to their madness?

Good Trainers Seize The Moment
One thing that good trainers know is that opportunities to train & reinforce good behavior present themselves all the time– but if you’re unprepared to take advantage of them, they don’t do you or your dog any good.

For instance one of the many problem behaviors that people complain about is that their dog is not paying attention to them when they go for a walk. But how many times do they “pay” their dog for attention? One of the easiest ways to get your dog to “check in” when out for a walk is to pay for it. If you have a pocket full of treats, and are paying attention yourself, then you can pay your dog for their attention. This works really well and is so simple to do. Any time you notice your dog checking in with you mark the behavior with a sound (a click or simple yes) this lets the dog know that what they just did earned a reward, then treat them and let the walk resume. Your dog will quickly learn that even though there are many fun things to do out on a walk, checking in with you is worthwhile too.

Dog Behavior Captured – Film At Eleven
This kind of training is called “capturing” and it is a very powerful weapon in the trainer’s arsenal. Capturing simply means that the dog offered a behavior all by itself with no prompting, coercion, or pressure by the trainer. The tools needed to capture a behavior are simple and portable. You provide the treats to pay for the behavior, the attention to observe the behavior, the sound & timing to mark and reward the behavior when it is offered. Capturing can be used to teach tons of useful behaviors, some behaviors you might capture include:

  • Sitting
  • Laying down
  • Sitting to greet
  • Sitting to eat
  • Barking ceased
  • Any behavior that you want your dog to repeat in a given situation


Capturing is Stress Free
One of the reasons that capturing is so powerful is that for the most part, it is a totally stress free way of training. The dog is figuring out on its own that a certain behavior in a certain situation seems to pay off handsomely for them. I’m sure everyone reading this article has had light bulb moment where they have learned something in this manner. Although I can only speculate how the dog feels about it, I know in us humans it’s a great feeling. On the other hand, have you ever been taught something where the instructor had to physically place or coax you in the correct position? Hitting a baseball, leaning to dance, yoga positions? Even though you know the instructor is doing this for your benefit, there still may be a bit of uneasiness and awkwardness about the situation. I can imagine that our dogs feel something akin to this when the pressure is on to learn.

Capturing Is Not Bribing
Many opponents of treat based training feel that treats are a bribe. This is just not the case in capturing. For a treat to be a bribe, it must be given before the behavior is offered. In this case, it’s the exact opposite. The dog is rewarded (or paid if you will) only after you’ve been presented with a behavior your looking for.

And finally, the simple fact that the dog is learns that by interacting with you it’s able to change its environment for the better. And frankly isn’t that what it’s all about?

Where Can I Learn More About Training?
This list of books can help you on your way to establishing good training practices for both you and your dog:

  • The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson - If dogs are ever required to come with an owners manual, this book should be it.
  • How to Teach o New Dog Old Tricks by Dr. Ian Dunbar - Dr. Dunbar is the founder of Association of Pet Dog Trainers, a veterinarian, animal behaviorist, and one of the premiere authors on the subject of dog training.
  • The Dog Whisperer by Paul Owens - No this is not Cesar Milan. A Compassionate, Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training
  • Clicker Training For Dogs by Karen Pryor - Introduction to clicker training -- positive reinforcement based on operant conditioning.

 

As always we welcome your comments and suggestions about this article. Let's learn from each other.

Cheers

Kevin, Jackie, Gavin, Annie, Tosha, Elbee

Copyright © 2010 DogLoversDigest.com. All rights reserved.

5 comments - Posted by Kevin Myers at 8:00 PM - Categories: Dog Training Tips | Dogs | Training

Mar 24 2010

Woof Wednesday With Dr. Lorie Huston: Behavioral Medications in Dogs

Depressed looking dog on a couch.While many veterinarians, behaviorists, and trainers are familiar with using medication to treat behavioral problems in dogs, it is still something that many dog lovers are suspicious about. I have met many people who feel that using behavioral medications on dogs is unwarranted. Some feel that using medications like this is a cop out; that you are merely drugging a dog in order to avoid putting in the training necessary to deal with problem behaviors. Others feel that the veterinary & drug industries are just padding their coffers at the owners and the dogs expense. And as always there is still a stigma, even in humans about using medication for behavior issues.

Our guest this week is Dr. Lorie Huston. Dr. Huston has more than 20 years experience as a veterinarian and is well versed in the field of behavioral medications in dogs. She agreed to address some of the myths and facts surrounding behavioral medications in dogs.

DLD: What are some of the behavioral issues that medications can address?

Dr. Huston:
Dogs suffer from separation anxiety, noise phobias (such as fear of thunderstorms or fireworks) and compulsive disorders of many different types. Many dogs with these types of disorders become destructive and can even create health hazards for themselves. Unfortunately, the household destruction that frequently accompanies separation anxiety and other behavioral disorders is one of the most common reasons dogs are surrendered to shelters, abandoned or euthanized outright.

The most commonly used behavioral medications, Reconcile and Clomicalm, are approved (by the FDA) for use in canine separation anxiety. However, in real world practice, they are also used for a variety of other behavioral issues, such as aggression, phobias and compulsive disorders. It is worth noting that while use of these medications to treat separation anxiety, phobias and other compulsive disorders is widely accepted their use in cases of aggression remains more controversial because of the dangers that some of our more aggressive dogs can pose to human safety. While I'm not suggesting that these aggressive dogs be abandoned or "written off", at the same time, threats to human safety are serious matters and must be properly addressed.

DLD: Aren’t these medications just a cop out? A way to say I don’t want to deal with my dog so I will just drug it?

Dr. Huston: No, these medications, if used appropriately, are far from being a "cop out". They are a means of providing relief for your dog's anxieties and making your dog more receptive to learning new life skills to replace the undesirable habits/traits. However, these drugs should never be used as a sole means of dealing with a behavioral problem. This type of usage is inappropriate and certainly could be called a "cop out". They should always be used together with a behavior modification training program designed to teach your dog to behave in an appropriate fashion to challenges in his/her life or environment. These types of behavioral modification programs require a great deal of commitment, time and effort and are definitely not a "cop out".

DLD: Are these medications the same as the ones used in humans, or are the developed specifically for dogs?

Dr. Huston: These medications are the same as those used in people. Reconcile (fluoxetine) is the same as Prozac. Clomicalm (clomipramine) is the same medication as Clopram, Clopress, Anafranil. However, these medications have been packaged in dosage sizes that are easily dosed for canine use. They are also being used in feline behavioral medicine.

Because Reconcile and Clomicalm take time to build up a blood level that is effective in relieving anxiety, other medications may be used as "rescue drugs" in situations requiring rapid anxiolytic (anxiety-reducing) effects. These medications would include drugs such as alprazolam (aka Xanax) and diazepam (aka Valium).

One medication that was commonly used in the past as a sedative but is no longer recommended in situations where anxiolytic effects are required is acepromazine. Acepromazine will sedate a dog nicely but will not calm the dog at the same time and may actually make the dog's condition worse because the dog will still be frightened but unable to react to the frightening stimuli.

DLD: When should an owner consider approaching their veterinarian about behavioral issues?

Dr. Huston: If anxiety or other behavioral disorders are affecting the quality of your dog's life or interfering with the human-animal bond between you and your dog, it is time to talk to your veterinarian about behavior modification and possibly about behavior modification drugs. Behavior modification can be accomplished in the absence of drugs as well. But for some dogs, the drugs will speed the rehabilitation by making the learning process easier for them.

DLD: Are these behavioral issues dealt with simply through medication, or are there other components?

Dr. Huston: Behavior modification training is always an essential part of using these drugs. These behavior modification training techniques take time and effort to teach. If you are unable or unwilling to pursue behavior modification training, behavior modification drugs are not appropriate.

DLD: Will using these medications require more trips to the vets office?

Dr. Huston: Your dog will need to be seen periodically for examinations and possibly even blood testing to make certain the medications are not affecting your dog in an unforeseen or undesirable way. In addition, your veterinarian will probably also need to discuss your training progress and how your dog is doing overall while on these medications. The frequency of visits will vary from one situation to another though. You should consult your veterinarian regarding how often your dog will need to be seen and/or examined

DLD: Once on a dog is on behavioral meds, is he/she on them for life?

Dr. Huston: No, the idea is to teach your dog new behaviors while receiving these medications. Once these behaviors are learned and have successfully replaced the undesirable behaviors on a regular basis, the medications are generally discontinued. It is a good idea when discontinuing medications like Reconcile and Clomicalm to gradually taper the medications rather than stopping them abruptly.

DLD: Do I need to take my dog to a specialist, or is this something all vets are familiar with?

Dr. Huston: Some veterinarians are comfortable dealing with these drugs and others are not and may refer you to a veterinary behavioral specialist. In some cases, your veterinarian may feel comfortable prescribing the medications for you but may ask you to work with a dog trainer who is experienced in behavioral modification techniques simultaneously. In almost all cases, behavioral modification training should be a positive reward-based system free of any confrontational or punitive training methods.

DLD: How can I find out more about these medications and the behavioral issues they are used for?

Dr. Huston: I have written several articles that may be helpful. Fluoxetine for Dogs, Clomipramine in Dogs, Dogs Who are Scared of Thunderstorms, Positive Reinforcement Dog Training, Separation Anxiety and Your Dog, Training Methods for Canine Seperation Anxiety.

In addition, Reconcile's website (http://www.reconcile.com/default.aspx) also has some helpful information relative to the medication itself and their recommended behavior modification training program for separation anxiety. Clomicalm also has a website (http://www.clomicalm.novartis.us/index.htm) that provides information about their product. They have a helpful FAQ's page about separation anxiety.

DLD: Why are using these medications so controversial in dogs?
 
Dr. Huston: I'm not sure about the answer to this question. Perhaps it is related to the stigma that is often (wrongly) associated with the use of these medications in people. Unfortunately, people requiring antidepressants or anxiolytic medications are sometimes incorrectly perceived as being "crazy" or "unstable". Perhaps it is related to the fact that many people do not like the idea of medicating or sedating their dog. Still others may not fully understand how and why these drugs are used in dogs. As stated previously, these medications are not appropriate for all pets. Owners electing to use these medications must also commit to extensive training and behavior modification for their dog. Not all pet owners are equal to these challenges. However, these medications can provide an alternative to surrendering a pet with serious behavioral issues and may, in some cases, prove to be a means of saving that dog's life by giving the dog owner options preferable to surrender or abandonment.

Dr. Lorie Huston is a veterinarian with over 20 years experience and is the author of the popular blog The Pet Health Care Gazette.

We welcome your comments and suggestions on this article. If you have other good resources of information on behavioral medications in dogs, please share them with us here.

Cheers

 

5 comments - Posted by Kevin Myers at 12:00 AM - Categories: Behavior | Behavioral Medication in Dogs | Health | Shy Dogs | Training | Veterinarian | Woof Wednesday

Mar 20 2010

Week In Review, March 14, 2010

This past week our Woof Wednesday guest was Rod Burkert of GoPetFriendly.com. Rod and his family are on the road travelling in their new GoPetFriendly Winnebago, and you can keep up with their adventures on the GoPetFriendly Blog. This week’s Woof Wednesday guest will be Lorie Huston DVM, a veterinarian for over 20 years and the author of The Pet Health Care Gazette; Lorie and I will be discussing behavioral medications in dogs. Guests in the upcoming weeks include Sarah Kalnajs of Blue Dog Training and Behavior and Peta Clarke of Animal Training Solutions.

A point of emphasis that I always try to make when talking about the behavior of dogs is that it is our responsibility to communicate clearly with them, to train them in the behaviors we want them to display. Kelly Gorman Dunbar wrote an excellent article about this recently on Dog Star Daily entitled Change Your Perspective and Train Your Dog.

Although I worry about over anthropomorphizing when it comes to dogs, the article The Ethical Dog appearing in Scientific American Mind has some interesting observations about how dogs keep it fair when it comes to play.

And finally, Debunking the Dominance Myth by Carmen Buitrago (provided by our friend Angela Adams of Fun4Fido) deals with the continuing fallacy of laying the blame for all dog behaviors at the doorstep of dominance.

Have a great weekend and we’ll talk soon.

Cheers

Kevin, Jackie, Gavin, Annie, Tosha, Elbee

0 comments - Posted by Kevin Myers at 8:49 PM - Categories: Behavior | Dogs | Dominance in Dogs | Health | Training | Veterinarian | Woof Wednesday