Category: Treats

Apr 4 2010

Training Tips: Why Won't My Dog Come When Called?

This past week I read an excellent article on Karen Pryor's web site, http://www.clickertraining.com. The article was written by Rebecca Lynch and was entitled Poisoned Cues: The Case of the Stubborn Dog. It reminds us to first look at factors other than a dog being stubborn, when a behavior breaks down. With Spring in the air and warmer weather upon us, we will need to use the cue/command perhaps most often poisoned by us as owners— getting our dogs to come when called.

What's in it for me?
Dogs are always looking at things from the perspective of "what's in it for me?", and for many dogs the answer to that question is "nothing good" when it comes to responding to recall. Sure they get called (mostly at the same times everyday) for good things like food, walks, or perhaps a game of ball. But for many dogs, responding to recalls are more likely to make good things end instead of happen. If you were to keep a list of pro's and con's (from your dog's point of view) for responding to "Lassie come", chances are your list would look something like this:

Pros:

  • Got food (but many times this has the additional cues of time and words like dinner or food or eat)
  • Went for a walk (again cues of time and words like walk and presence of leash or walking shoes)
  • Got a treat (again many times your voice has changed in pitch and has become a predictor of a treat coming)

Cons:

  • Got my nails trimmed
  • Got a bath
  • Got patted on the head (yes some dogs put up with this but many do not like it)
  • Got toweled off
  • Went to the vets
  • Had to stop chasing
  • Had to stop smelling
  • Had to stop playing
  • Had to come inside
  • Had to get up from comfortable spot
  • Got scolded
  • Had to stop sniffing other dogs butt
  • Had to stop eating grass

It doesn't take an advanced degree in mathematics to get the point , coming when called has simply come to mean an end to fun and interesting activity— and the dog gets nothing good in return.

What needs to change?
To get our recall back we simply need to change our dogs perception of what is likely to happen when they do respond to recall. By combining treats with real life rewards we can set up a win/win situation for both us and our dogs and strengthen the recall response.

What are some ways I can build a good recall in my dog?
For instance setup a doggie play date with a friend in a controlled area. Let your dog know that you have treats (high value ones to start) and go out for the play date. When your chances for success are high (before your dog becomes too distracted, or after he is no longer so distracted) call you dog to come. If your dog comes treat them with the high value treat and your best good dog voice; and then let the dog go right back to playing (the real life reward). Do this several times over the first session, each time make sure that your dog is not so into his play session that he has no chance of responding when you call. End the session on a cheerful note when the dogs are played out and reward the same for coming to you when you end the session as the first time he responded to your call. In addition any time your dog takes a break in the play session and comes over to check in on their own, a reward is called for. Over time, as the recall becomes stronger, you can fade the food rewards but you want to make sure that you always keep the real life rewards so that the dog feels at least that they have a chance of a good outcome when they come when called.

There are dozens of everyday situations that can be setup to take advantage of training like I just described. By planning training situations like this and stacking the odds in our (and the dog's) favor, we build up the recall with each success. By changing the ratio of good things vs. bad things in favor of the good, your dog will start to become more responsive to recall and thus better your chances of getting a recall when the safety of your dog and others depend on it.

Cheers

Kevin, Jackie, Gavin, Annie, Tosha, Elbee

 

6 comments - Posted by Kevin Myers at 5:57 PM - Categories: Behavior | Dog Safety | Dog Training Tips | Dogs | Play | Training | Treats

Mar 4 2010

Book Review: Am I Boring My Dog? By Edie Jarolim

Worry is part of the human condition, and it is something we seem to excel at. When we are put into unfamiliar situations and feel out of our depth, it's amazing the questions that can wander through our minds. Enter Edit Jarolim, her significant canine other, Frankie, and their wonderful book, "Am I Boring My Dog? (And 99 Other Things Your Dog Wishes You Knew)."

Written mostly for those considering adding a dog to their house and new dog owners, even veteran dog owners like me can pick up tidbits from this book. Covering 100 questions, from irreverent ones like "How should I refer to my relationship with my dog?" (I had no idea what a SCO was), to serious ones like "How much - and how often - should I feed my dog?" (A question I'm sure your dog has interest in), Edie's congenial style and sharp wit make this a fun and informative read. Chock full of great resources and some pretty clever insights, make sure to pay attention to the footnotes, they alone are worth the price of admission. So if you've ever wondered if you're dog will hate you if you dress him up, this is the book for you.
 
Edie has a terrific blog that can be found at http://www.willmydoghateme.com and you can find out more about her at http://www.ediejarolim.com.  She can also be found on tweeting away at http://www.twitter.com/willmydoghateme.

0 comments - Posted by Kevin Myers at 9:22 PM - Categories: Adoption | Advocacy | Dogs | Health | Humor | Nutrition | Rescue | Spay & Neuter | Training | Treats | Veterinarian

Feb 20 2010

Do They Always Have to Like It?

With temperatures in the high 40s and sunshine– today was a welcome respite from the near 3 months of rain, sleet, gloom, and snow that has been our constant companion here in the foothills of the Smoky Mountains.  The sacred doggy pool has been one solid chunk of ice & muck for months and it finally thawed out enough so I could pump it out and clean it.

As you can see from the pictures, everyone had a great time and was really enjoying the extended romp today. Playing with the dogs I was reminded of how individualistic they are and that each one has their own peculiarities.

Physically handling our dogs is something that is both necessary and even pleasurable for us, but our dogs may not be so inclined. One of the first things that we try to work on with our dogs (especially when they are puppies and it’s much easier and safer to train) is that it is okay to be handled. Touching and holding every part of their body, as well as hugs and pats are all things that should be worked on. Some may disagree with the hugging and patting part but I’ve found that other people and especially children tend not to hear anything you tell them about a dog, they just dive right in. So it’s best to be prepared.

But just because we teach them to tolerate it doesn’t mean that they have to like it. Annie (above practicing her Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon moves) likes to be held and petted. Gavin (my blue eyed blue merle) absolutely does not like being held or petted, although he sings a different tune when it comes to a TTouch or massage session. Tosha (my red Aussie) is our new girl and although she like to be pet and scratched, the mood must strike her just right.

Remember that teaching our dogs to be handled doesn’t mean they have to like it, just that they will tolerate it. Dogs like humans are individuals and we all have our own comfort zones.

We hope that you are able to get out and enjoy your weekend just like we are.

Cheers

Kevin Jackie Gavin Annie Tosha

1 comments - Posted by Kevin Myers at 6:07 PM - Categories: Dogs | Photo | Play | Treats

Jan 22 2010

Who's Training Who?

Dog dropping a bone at owners feet.I’ve seen a lot of training tips being offered lately that deal with a simple concept, ignoring behaviors that we don’t our dogs to repeat. Whether we know it or not, we are constantly training our dogs. Decisions we make about what to ignore, or what to reinforce, shape the dogs we live with.

I was actually working on another article today when I saw an old battle of who’s training who breakout between my wife, Jackie, and my Aussie, Gavin. As usual in this particular battle, Gavin won.

Sometimes Jackie will prepare a treat for the dogs to keep them occupied while she is doing other things.  She takes some bones and stuffs them with a dog biscuit and maybe a little bit of peanut butter and gives the bones to the dogs. This normally keeps Gavin, Annie, and Tosha occupied for quite some time, as they work at trying to get the treat inside.  One day while working on his bone, Gavin decided that it was taking just too long to get the prize. He walked up to Jackie in the kitchen and dropped the hard bone loudly on the tile floor. My wife was busy doing other things, but Gavin was persistent and my wife was tired of hearing the bone hit the floor (and her feet) so she reached down and pushed the treat out for him. A behavior was born and the battle was joined.

If Jackie had initially ignored the behavior, Gavin would have eventually quit doing it because a behavior that is not reinforced will decrease in frequency until it ceases.  She could have also used negative punishment (the removal from the dog of something that it finds positive) and taken the bone away from Gavin anytime he dropped it like that. Gavin would have learned over time that dropping the yummy bone ay mommy’s feet, makes it go away.

What Jackie has done is inadvertently put Gavin on the slot machine (variable ratios) schedule of reinforcement. The battles between them always end in Jackie’s paying out a jackpot. Sometimes it takes ten bone drops, sometimes it takes a hundred bone drops, but it always ends with Gavin being paid off. Gavin knows that with each pull of the slot machine lever, he is that much closer to hitting the jackpot.

Jackie could still use both methods mentioned earlier to end this behavior. In the first instance it might take days for the initial stand off to result in Gavin giving in. He would end up coming back from time to time to offer the bone drop again, and if Jackie were to give in just one of those times, the behavior would come back with a vengeance and even stronger than before. She could also just use the negative punishment method and take the bone away when he drops it, but she’s just too much of a softie for that; and besides, as she puts it, they wouldn’t want to deprive me of a good chuckle!

Cheers

Kevin, Jackie, Gavin, Annie, Tosha

0 comments - Posted by Kevin Myers at 4:24 PM - Categories: Behavior | Dogs | Humor | Training | Treats

Jan 4 2010

Does Your Dog Take Visa or Mastercard?

Dog in a business suit.It’s the New Year and all across the world, dogs and puppies are finding their way into new homes. As owners one of the first things we need to figure out about our new companions is what forms of payment they accept.

Imagine you’ve just finished your first week of a new job, you see the accountant making the rounds and you’re anticipating that first paycheck. You’re sitting at your desk when the accountant comes up, leans over you, pats you on the head, says “good job,” and then walks away! How likely are you to come back the next week and work for that same pay? Our dogs are no different. We need to find the things that they feel are rewarding and that they are willing to work for.

Not All Dogs Work for the Same Things

Some dogs are willing to work for their regular everyday kibble, for others it’s hot dogs, or cheese, or a smartly thrown tennis ball. Whatever it is, it’s your job to find out what your dog will work for; and, you need to find more than one thing. When it comes to food rewards, I recommend that you find at least three different levels of reward.

Level 1 Reward

This is a reward that your dog is definitely willing to work for, but they’re not doing back flips and standing on their heads. This is the standard everyday training reward. Think of it as the straight pay that you get for a 40 hour week.

Level 2 Reward

This is a reward that is coveted by your dog much more and as such should be used for special occasions, when training sessions become a bit more difficult and you need a bit more motivation to keep the dog engaged. Using a human analogy, if you worked 80 hours a week but were only given standard pay for that second 40 hours; how productive would those second 40 hours be? On the other hand if you are paid overtime rate for that second 40 hours, you tend to be more productive.

Level 3 Reward

I refer to the level 3 reward as the “emergency” reward simply because it’s reserved for training those behaviors that are life and death. For instance, having a great recall on your dog can mean the difference between life and death. This is the type of reward that is so special to the dog; it will break away from chasing a squirrel across the road and in front of the car. For my Aussie Gavin, it’s Prime Rib, for another dog I had it was fresh boiled liver. This level treat is used for that one behavior and that one behavior only. If you like surf and turf and you have it every day of the week; after a while it ceases to become special doesn’t it?

Size Doesn’t Matter

All joking aside, if a dog likes hot dogs, he will work as hard for a one millimeter sized piece as he will for a one inch size piece. I’ve yet to meet the dog that will only work for a treat based on the size of the treat. I’ve trained dogs using just a very tiny smear of Gerber baby food as a reward. Now having said that, there are times when we want to give our dogs more than their regular share of a reward. It’s called a Jackpot and usually accompanies a breakthrough or to end a session on a particularly high note.

Summary

To sum up here are a few key points…

·         Make sure that the reward is something that your dog is willing to work for, not something you think your dog should work for.

·         Establish at least a few levels of treats so that you can pay out for overtime and bonuses.

·         Do not use the special and reserved treats for everyday work, they will lose their value.

·         Make your treat size as small as you possibly can.

If you can establish these three types of rewards for your dog, then you’re off to a pretty good start. If you have something you feel has been omitted or a comment of any type, please leave them here for us.

Looking forward to a great new year full of treats for us all…

Kevin, Jackie, Gavin, Annie, Tosha

0 comments - Posted by Kevin Myers at 12:58 PM - Categories: Behavior | Humor | Training | Treats